GREENSBORO — For many foodies, the phrase “gourmet hot dog” might sound like an oxymoron. But at The Red Onion, hot dogs are anything but ordinary picnic food.
Identified by a green and red neon sign declaring the restaurant a “gastro pub,” the tiny eatery occupies a sliver of Elm Street most recently inhabited by Center City Bar and Grill. And though The Red Onion has retained some of Center City’s look and feel inside, its menu is a departure from the space’s former resident.
Owned by the purveyor of the Downtown Dogs food carts, The Red Onion’s menu is heavy on franks. But, hot dogs aren’t the only option. The eatery serves a handful of tasty appetizers as an alternative to the usual nachos and mozzarella sticks. Think house-made hummus, herbed goat cheese crostini (served on toasted baguettes with garlic red pepper relish and balsamic reduction) and vegan black bean cakes: two smooth inside/crispy outside cakes topped with juicy, fresh pico de gallo and sour cream.
The Red Onion also offers a few non-dog sandwich choices. The pulled pork and BLAT (bacon, lettuce, avocado and tomato) are meaty enough to satisfy the hungriest of carnivores, while vegetarian choices such as the hummus wrap and black bean burger appeal to nonmeat eaters. Hand-pattied burgers are made with Ingold Farms (Asheboro) grass-fed beef, and the chicken sandwich features free-range bird from nearby Ashley Farms.
While The Red Onion’s sandwich options are solid, this place is clearly all about the hot dogs.
Diners can choose from two styles — special dogs or gourmet dogs — and a variety of wieners (everything from classic Nathan’s all beef and beer-stuffed brats to fat-free turkey and veggie dogs).
Special dogs include classics, such as the chili cheese dog and the Carolina dog (with chili, slaw and onions), to the so-wrong-it’s-right pepperoni pizza dog (topped with tomato sauce, pepperoni and mozzarella cheese).
The gourmet list includes more exotic choices such as the Elvis (fried with peanut butter and fried bananas), the chimichanga (rolled in a flour tortilla, deep fried and topped with queso) and the Washington apple (topped with cream cheese, apple-jalapeno compote and onion strings).
The Loaded Potato Dog is smothered with creamy mashed potatoes, sour cream, cheddar cheese, bacon and chives. Sure, it looks and sounds strange, but saltiness of the dog pairs quite well with the unconventional toppings.
A bit lighter, the Stinky Cheese Man Dog comes topped with bleu cheese crumbles, garlic red pepper relish and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar. The sweetness of the balsamic balances out the bite of the bleu cheese, which mingles well with the smokiness of the pepper relish to create a surprisingly complex flavor, for a hot dog, that is.
Diners can pair their dogs with a number of sides, such as seasonal veggies or fruit, cilantro lime coleslaw, creamy macaroni and cheese, and crispy, thin-cut sweet potato chips.
While it’s true that Greensboro has no shortage of hot dog joints, The Red Onion stands out from the crowd with dogs that break the backyard cookout mold.
Casual Dining features local restaurants for diners on a budget. It runs every other week in Go Triad. Contact Jennifer Bringle at jenniferbringle@gmail.com
