GREENSBORO — Occasionally, readers will write me with suggestions of places to feature in this column. Pretty much without fail, their tips have been spot-on, and I’ve discovered some really great, lesser-known eateries in town.
Of all the suggestions I’ve received, one restaurant name keeps popping up — Coliseum Country Cafe. Long on my list of must-try spots, I finally checked it out, and it did not disappoint.
Slotted in a tiny space in a strip shopping center on Coliseum Boulevard, the restaurant could almost go undetected by passers-by. Inside, the dining room outfitted with broken-in red-and-white leather booths and old-timey advertisements and movie posters resembles any number of small town Southern eateries. Friendly waitresses greet patrons with a twangy hello, bustling back and forth between tables and the kitchen, which is only obstructed by a tall counter.
The menu at Coliseum Country Cafe is a two-parter: the regular menu, which includes burgers, sandwiches and sides that are served daily; plus the specials list, entrees and sides that change each day. On the static menu, choices range from burgers, dogs and fried bologna to teriyaki grilled chicken, salads and tuna salad served with fruit. Sides include regular and curly fries, tater tots, warm chips or a choice of veggie. Center-cut country ham, New York strip, chicken tenders and crispy salmon patties fill out the regular entree menu. Also available are grilled pork chops — two thin, tender, bone-in chops, lightly seasoned.
On the revolving menu, options can include meatloaf, fried chicken, fried fish, beef tips over rice and grilled chicken with peppers and onions. The char-grilled barbecue ribs are a heap of meat — tender enough that it nearly falls from the bone and dripping with a tangy, smoky barbecue sauce. These entrees also come with two sides and bread. Sides include plenty of down home favorites — Crowder peas, pole beans, stewed squash and tender, seasoned turnip greens. Rice with gravy comes topped with a thick, not-too-salty brown gravy, while the home-style potato salad has a mustard base with large chunks of potato, boiled egg and celery for a bit of crunch. Lighter sides include fruit salad, applesauce, salad and steamed cabbage. And though listed as a side, the fried apple sticks taste more like dessert — fish-stick-sized bites of apple pie encased in a crispy batter. Bread choices range from cinnamon raisin toast and wheat rolls to fried cornbread (with or without jalapeño), which looks like a giant pancake.
For those not stuffed by the hearty portions of meat-and-two-sides, desserts await in the form of fruit cobbler, chocolate cake and pies that differ daily.
As usual, Go Triad readers impressed me with this suggestion. And while it’s certainly not the spot for a light meal or diet fare, for those days when nothing less than a stick-to-your-ribs country style meal will do, the Coliseum Country Cafe delivers.
Casual Dining features local restaurants for diners on a budget. It runs every other week in Go Triad. Contact Jennifer Bringle at jenniferbringle@gmail.com.
