Since the fine dining column shifted to an every-other-week schedule, I have generally forgone full reviews of restaurants outside the News & Record's distribution area. Readers have advised that they welcome occasional recommendations for out of town restaurants, however, and around this time each year, I prepare some suggestions for vacation dining. I welcome reader recommendations for future columns.
I do not get to the Myrtle Beach area as often as I used to. When I spent a little time there in February, I saw palm fronds aligned horizontally in the wind, while a lone gull struggled to make headway. The temperature was in the mid-40s, and the Canadians were talking about how great it was to be down South where the weather is so warm.
Much of life is about perspective. Although my view of the weather may not have matched that of the visitors from the North, the ambience and food at the Sea Captain's House (3002 North Ocean Blvd., Myrtle Beach, SC, 29577-3046, (843) 448-8082, www.seacaptains.com) still epitomize the low country for me. Tiered seating provides ocean views from most positions in the restaurant.
She Crab Soup ($4.95/cup, $7.95/bowl) is prepared in the classic Charleston style. The shrimp, scallops, flounder and oysters on a Seafood Platter ($22.95/four items) are all tender and fried with a light touch. My wife's perennial favorite here is Tri-Salad Sampler ($12.95) -- portions of shrimp, crab and chicken salads with lettuces and fresh fruit. More elaborate entrees are available as well.
Shepherd's Point (913 Arendell St., Morehead City, NC, 28557-4127, (252) 727-0815, www.shepardspoint restaurant.com) is a sister restaurant of Beaufort Grocery (117 Queen St., Beaufort, NC 28516, (252) 728-3899, www.beaufort grocery.com), both owned by chef Charles Park. While the latter is still recommended, I have also become enamored with this newer establishment during the past year.
Tobacco Onions ($2) define what I think fried onion rings ought to be. An evening special Seafood Chowder ($4/cup, $6/bowl) contained an abundance of shrimp and clams along with corn and potato. Stacked Triggerfish ($19) is a creative fusion of Down East North Carolina and Caribbean influences, with a crisp crust, in a coconut cream sauce. Shrimp and Scallops ($20) rest in ziti pasta with a light cream sauce. This is a good choice for meat eaters, as well.
Other coastal favorites: Carlton's (1401 Salter Path Road, Salter Path, NC, 28512, (252) 808-3404; www.carltonsathome.com) has moved to new, upscale quarters in the Ocean Club resort. Chef Patrick Hogan's crabcakes rank as one of the top two renditions I have experienced. Front Street Grill at Stillwater (300 Front St., Beaufort, NC 28516, (252) 728-4956; www.front streetgrillatstillwater.com) captures the essence of the Carolina coast. From panoramic picture windows are views of Taylor's Creek, whose lazy motion generates the "stillwater" subtitle for the restaurant. In addition to the other good stuff on the menu, Chef Bryan Carithers has a special talent for tuna. I consider Port Land Grille (1908 Eastwood Road, Lumina Station, Wilmington, NC, 28403, (910) 256-6056; www.portlandgrille.com) one of North Carolina's best restaurants. The marriage in life as well as in business of Shawn Wellersdick and Anne Steketee, who moved to Wilmington from Greensboro to open this establishment, has turned out to be one of North Carolina's most fortunate culinary partnerships. The cuisine at Caprice Bistro (10 Market St., Wilmington, NC, 28401, (910) 815-0810, www.capricebistro.com) grows out of France as well as Belgium, where chef-proprietor Thierry Moity grew up.
On a trip to the mountains, Louisiana Purchase (397 Shawneehaw Ave., Banner Elk, NC, 28604, (828) 963-5087, www.louisianapurchasefood andspirits.com) reminded me why this used to be a favorite and made me regret not going back more often. The restaurant has been under the ownership of Chef Patrick and manager Laurie Bagbey for about six years.
Jumbos were featured in Shrimp Remoulade ($10), accented by a "robust" (menu word) remoulade sauce. Jambalaya ($22) is shrimp, crawfish, chicken, and Andouille sausage baked in a blend of rice, celery and tomatoes. Blackened Fish Royale ($23) uses mahi-mahi, moderately spiced, along with crawfish tail meat, diced shallots, green onions and capers, in étouffé.
I spent a weekend in April judging the Fire on the Rock Chef's Challenge in Blowing Rock (www.fireontherock.com). This is one of the most entertaining experiences I have found. If you did not make it this year, by all means set aside time next spring.
Twenty restaurants competed in preliminary rounds on Tuesdays and Wednesdays in February and March. Diners paid $39 for six courses, three from each restaurant team, then rated their meals on a detailed scoring form (prepared by me!). The winners of each round competed against each other until four finalists emerged.
The final round featured teams led by Sam Beasely of The Gamekeeper (3005 Shull's Mill Road, Boone, NC, 28607, (828) 963-7400, www.gamekeeper-nc.com); Andrew Long of Storie Street Grille (1167 Main St., Blowing Rock, NC, 28605, (828) 295-7075, www.stories treetgrille.com); Nicole Palazzo of Sorrento's Bistro (140 Azalea Circle, Banner Elk, NC, 28604, (828) 898-5214, sorrentos bistrohome.com); and Jason Jarrell of Rowland's at the Westglow Spa (2845 U.S. 221 South, Blowing Rock, NC, 28605, (828) 295-4463, (800) 562-0807, www.westglowresortandspa.com).
On Saturday, The Gamekeeper and Rowland's prevailed, with The Gamekeeper taking the championship by 10 points, out of a total calculated from scores completed by five judges, in Sunday's championship round. The website shows the dishes each team prepared.
Other favorites in the Blowing Rock area: Crippen's (239 Sunset Drive, Blowing Rock, NC, 28605, (828) 295-3487, www.crippens.com) has instituted a new, more accessible menu with generally lower prices, while retaining the perennial favorites. Rooms and the inn have been spruced up as well. For the views, in addition to the creative cuisine, Restaurant G at Gideon Ridge Inn (202 Gideon Ridge Road, Blowing Rock, NC, 28605, (828) 295-3644, www.gideonridge.com) is special. Chef Michael Forman also operates a more casual cousin, Bistro Roca (143 Wonderland Trail, Blowing Rock, NC, 28605, (828) 295-4008, www.bistroroca.com).
I look forward to returning to as many of these places as I can during the summer. Hope to see you there!
John Batchelor is a freelance contributor who has been reviewing restaurants for more than 25 years. You can reach him at P.O. Box 20848, Greensboro, NC, 27420 or send e-mail to john.e.batchelor@gmail.com.
