I like to think of myself as something of a North Carolina barbecue expert. I grew up in Salisbury, just a few miles down the road from Lexington and its famous western-style 'cue. And I spent many years living in Raleigh, right in the heart of eastern-style barbecue country. I've tried both, and though my heart remains in the west, I enjoy both styles.
So, when I heard a new restaurant near me was serving barbecue, I just had to check it out. And boy, was I surprised.
As I got out of my car, I immediately noted that Chef Jack's Hot Dog Chili Shack smelled like the real deal. Though it's attached to an Exxon station at Battleground and Cotswold avenues, the smoky smell of barbecue all but masked the pungent odor of gasoline.
Inside, the air got even better. The hickory-smoke aroma of the barbecue mingled with the scent of burgers sizzling on the grill.
The small space felt cozy, with 1950s soda fountain-style tables and chairs dotting the tiled floor. Posters of blues musicians Robert Johnson and B.B. King adorned the walls. And the kitchen, partially obstructed by a brick partition, bustled with cooks grilling, chopping and mixing all sorts of delicious-smelling things.
We stepped up to the order window, prepared to make an important decision: hamburger, hot dog or barbecue? Char-grilled and made with beef ground personally by the restaurant's co-owner, the burgers seemed like a no-brainer.
Then there were the hot dogs ---- all-beef Sabretts served New York-style with mustard and sauerkraut or relish or Carolina-style with chili, mustard, slaw and onions. But I came for 'cue, and that's what I intended to get.
Once my boyfriend, Rodney, ordered a Carolina-style hot dog combo (combos come with chips and a large drink), I asked the waiter that all-important question: "What style barbecue do you serve?"
"South Carolina-style," he replied. I was intrigued, having never even thought that our neighbors to the south might have their own spin on pork.
Turns out, they do, and it comes in the form of smoked Boston butt, hand-pulled and served with a mustard-based sauce and coleslaw. Being the western-style fan that I am, I bristled at the thought of putting coleslaw on barbecue (you use red slaw!), but I decided to give it a shot anyway, and ordered a barbecue sandwich combo.
Our food arrived shortly thereafter, and we unwrapped our sandwiches. Onions, coleslaw and chili covered Rodney's hot dog, making it a little messy to eat. But it was a good messy, as the sweetness of the onions and coleslaw mingled perfectly with the chili, which was just spicy enough to have a little kick. Though not to be overpowered by its toppings, the hot dog itself had its own rich, meaty flavor with a nice hint of saltiness.
I gave my barbecue sandwich a good look before eating it, going so far as to peel back the top bun to get a peek inside. A generous helping of coleslaw sat atop a mound of pulled pork, moist with the yellowish mustard sauce.
The meat had a smoky, yet tangy flavor from the hickory and mustard. Not as sharp as vinegar sauces, the mustard just ups the taste a bit and blends well with the sweetness of the coleslaw. Bite after bite, I marveled at how much I enjoyed this new style, so similar yet so different from that of my own state.
By the end of the meal, I felt stuffed. For such a low price (my combo was $5.75; Rodney's hot dog combo was $4.50), Chef Jack's serves a lot of food. And though the menu has only half a dozen sandwiches, the restaurant serves a couple of additional items as daily specials, as well as specialty items such as South Carolina-style boiled peanuts. The latter had me excited for a return visit ---- I'll just have to remember to save some room.
Casual Dining features local restaurants for diners on a budget. It runs every other week in Go Triad. Contact Jennifer Bringle at jenniferbringle@gmail.com.
