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Lately, it seems like I can’t turn on the television without seeing a commercial for subs. Whether it’s Quizno’s creepy talking oven, Subway’s annoying “$5 footlong” jingle or the Sheetz guy and his hair-metal-ballad-like theme music, I just can’t seem to escape them. And even with all the ads, I still think, “Meh, it’s just a sandwich.”

But I put my sub apathy aside when I heard about Greensboro’s new Vietnamese sandwich shop, Banh mi Saigon Sandwiches & Bakery. The restaurant recently opened in a strip mall on High Point Road, and I have to admit I was intrigued when I heard they were selling sandwiches on freshly baked baguettes for only $3.

Like a lot of strip mall stores, you have to keep an eye out for Banh mi Saigon, or you’ll miss it. Inside, the sparsely decorated space was actually a refreshing change from restaurants over-adorned with promotional signs and tacky fake plants. A smattering of tables and chairs, plus the counter and a couple coolers are pretty much the extent of the restaurant’s dining area; it’s primarily a takeout joint.

The menu is similarly straightforward, with only a handful of sandwiches, all the same size and price (save one, the Saigon, which is 50 cents more). A display case next to the counter contains a few desserts, mostly small pastries and cookie-type baked goods that range in price from $1-$2. Beverages include American and Vietnamese soft drinks, as well as bubble tea, a popular Asian drink made of fruit or milk tea with tapioca beads.

Even with the no-frills menu, my boyfriend Rodney and I had a hard time choosing just one sandwich. So, we decided to get three, and split them up so we could try different flavors. We went with the pulled rotisserie chicken, shredded pork and fried pork roll sandwiches.

As we gave our orders, the friendly counter server asked if we’d had Vietnamese sandwiches before. We both admitted we had not, and he smiled and said, “You’re in for a treat.” Rodney gave me a look, as he was a little apprehensive as to whether or not he’d like the sandwiches, but I assured him they’d be fine.

Once we got home, we tried the pulled rotisserie chicken first. I was immediately struck by the baguette, which was crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, as a baguette should be. I’m often disappointed by baguettes that are so over-baked, they’re almost too hard to eat.

The chicken was moist and flavorful, with just a hint of seasoning. Sweet onions and cilantro (complete with stems) worked together to enhance the chicken’s flavor, without overpowering it. And sliced cucumber spears added crunch.

Next, we moved on to the shredded pork. The meat resembled the pulled pork found at most local barbecue restaurants. Like the chicken, it had a moist, tender texture and a lightly seasoned flavor. The onions, cilantro and cucumbers played the same roles as in the chicken sandwich, while a lemon fish sauce took the lead. The consistency of a slightly thinner tarter sauce, the lemon fish dressing added a sweet and tangy punch to the pork.

Finally, we dug into the fried pork roll sandwich, the wild card of the bunch for me. I’d never had pork roll, nor had I ever tasted pâté, which also comes on the sandwich. The pork roll’s texture reminded me a little of ham or thinly sliced pork loin, with a much less salty flavor. The creaminess of the pâté complemented the texture of the pork roll.

Overall, each sandwich had a distinctively fresh taste –– from the bread and the meat to the veggies and condiments, everything had that just-prepared richness of flavor. And though we’d eaten quite a bit of food, we felt comfortably full, without that miserable feeling you get from overindulgence. Maybe I should rethink my indifference to subs, after all.

Casual Dining features local restaurants for diners on a budget. It runs every other week in Go Triad. Contact Jennifer Bringle at jenniferbringle@gmail.com.

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